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Beyond the Winding Roads: Discovering Sikkim's Beauty, Culture, and Spirit

July 22, 2024·13 min read·

Experience the breathtaking beauty and spiritual serenity of Sikkim. From Pelling’s majestic waterfalls and sacred monasteries to the pristine snows of North Sikkim and the vibrant culture of Gangtok, this journey reveals a land where nature’s power meets human warmth, progressive equality, and a profound, inspiring commitment to cleanliness.

Nature's whims showed us their power just days before our trip to Sikkim. Our tour agent called with news: heavy rains had damaged the main road, stretching our usual three-hour drive into an eight-hour journey. Often, a longer trip means more trouble. But when you're cradled in nature's arms, time takes on a new meaning.

As we wound our way from Bagdogra to Pelling through the landscape, hours melted away unnoticed. The path itself became our destination, each turn revealing new wonders. Mountains whispered their ancient stories, valleys unfolded like green carpets, and rivers sang their timeless songs.

Before we knew it, night had fallen, and Pelling welcomed us with twinkling lights. We arrived later than planned, but our hearts were full of the day's beauty. In the end, the journey itself had become our first adventure.

Often, hotels greet you with polite but practiced smiles, not in Pelling. Here, our welcome felt like coming home after a long journey. The staff didn't just wait behind a desk; they stood ready, eyes bright with genuine warmth. It was as if we were long-lost relatives, finally returning to the family fold. This heartfelt reception didn't end at the door. In the dining room, the same spirit of sincere hospitality embraced us.

Our stay in Pelling was for two days, where we were to see Rimbi Orange Garden, Yuksom, Kanchenjunga Falls, Tashiding Monastery, Skywalk, Buddha Temple, Sidkeong Bird Park, etc.

We started with Rimbi Orange Garden. It was quite surprising to see an orange garden at such a height. Along with orange trees, there were cardamom and colorful flower plants. The surrounding mountains and flowing river made the atmosphere even more enchanting. Here you can sit on rocks by the river and listen to nature's music in solitude with Rhododendron wine. This wine is made from the flowers of the Rhododendron plant and has medicinal properties.

A characteristic of rivers flowing from hilly areas, like Sikkim, is that their sound can be heard far and wide, and it starts to seep into the depths of your heart. Be it a river flowing along the roads or a river formed by waterfalls from snowy mountains. Hilly rivers have another feature - their playfulness starts to enter your mind, and you gradually move beyond the feeling of age and can enjoy nature from your heart. I felt two similarities between hill people and hill rivers - they both don't fight nature but find their way by becoming friends with it.

After Rimbi Orange Garden, we reached Yuksom. This place is a link between the present and the past. It was the first capital of Sikkim. It was established in 1642 by Phuntsog Namgyal, who was the first Chogyal (temporary and religious king) of Sikkim. The coronation site of Sikkim's first king is known as the "Throne of Norbugang".

From Yuksom, our journey led us to the hidden gem of Changey waterfall. The specialty of Changey waterfall is that it's not visible from the road. When you climb 50-60 steps up, this extremely beautiful waterfall suddenly appears. Sitting by this waterfall, one cannot help but feel a deep connection with the divine. The sight of the water in its majestic descent, the sound of its persistent song, and the cool mist that caresses the face—all converge to create a moment of profound tranquillity and spirituality. It is as if nature herself is an artist, and we, mere spectators of her sublime creation.

This sense of spiritual connection only deepened as we made our way to Tashiding Monastery. Located on the top of a hill that rises between the Rathong Chu and Rangit rivers. Tashiding Monastery in West Sikkim is a Buddhist monastery of the Nyingma sect of Tibetan Buddhism, considered the most sacred monastery. Perhaps that's why it's described as the "Heart of Sikkim/Denzong". The peaceful atmosphere of this monastery, situated on a high hill, along with the sound of the flowing river, the sweet voices of birds, the blue sky, and the gently caressing cool breeze, makes you introspective and gives you a unique spiritual peace experience.

From the serene heights of Tashiding, we descended to explore another wonder, Pelling's Sidkeong Bird Park, which is a paradise for bird lovers, and the beautiful Himalayan backdrop makes it even more beautiful. The park's natural beauty and well-maintained paths make it perfect for nature walks. Seeing birds in colors that we might not have seen even in books awakens the photographer in you. The park's commitment to animal love, diverse wildlife, and conservation is commendable. We see an amazing blend of adventure and peaceful environment here.

Walking on the transparent glass surface of the Skywalk built at the height of the mountain, with gusts of cold wind, is a unique experience in itself. From here, you can also see tourists paragliding. Right next to the Skywalk is a beautiful Buddhist monastery, from where you can see a panoramic view of Pelling town.

After two days embracing Pelling's charm, we set out for Gangtok. The road ahead promised a seven-hour journey through Sikkim's breathtaking landscape.

Our first pause came at a natural wonder: the Seven Sisters Waterfall. Here, seven streams tumble down the mountainside, each one a silvery thread in nature's tapestry. As they merge below, they birth a river.

On sunny days, the mist from the falls catches light, painting rainbows on the ground. It's a sight that stays with you, a moment of pure magic.

Watching this, I couldn't help but think of India itself. Just as these seven falls come together to create something greater, our nation's diverse cultures and traditions blend into the beautiful mosaic that is India. In this waterfall, I saw a reflection of our country's unity in diversity, a reminder of the strength and beauty we find in coming together.

Further along this route is a replica of Char Dham. The temples carved out of stones, surrounded by mountains, in the lap of nature, are worth seeing. On the same route, about two hours away, there's a very beautiful Buddha Garden. It has large statues of Lord Buddha in different postures. It's quite a large complex. You can see the entire complex in less time with a battery-operated cart. The government's participation and contribution in developing the route from Pelling to Gangtok for spiritual tourism is commendable.

Our journey from Gangtok to Lachung unveiled North Sikkim's many faces. But it also showed us nature's power when balance is lost. We saw a dam, shattered by last year's glacier break, a stark reminder of nature's force. Even now, Lachen remains cut off, relying on airlifted supplies.

In Lachung, we found the magical nature of North Sikkim in just less than 36 hours. Our room framed a perfect view: a waterfall's misty veil, a river's silvery ribbon, and mountains wearing caps of snow turned golden by the morning sun. Waking to this was like hearing a gentle symphony played just for us.

The road to Zero Point felt like a dark ribbon laid across a world of white. Snow stretched on either side, each drift uniquely shaped, as if nature had sculpted a welcome just for us. In this pristine landscape, we felt embraced by a silent, sparkling love, each snowfield whispering its own story of beauty and peace.

We got to see the temperament of North Sikkim's changing weather and various aspects of nature up close. A lovely morning sun, then mountains covered with green trees wearing a blanket of clouds, mountains adorned with velvety snow, snowfall, waterfall, heavy rain, flowing river, still lake, flower bed-like gardens. Seeing so many forms of nature in one day was unimaginable before coming here.

This journey showed us both nature's beauty and its power, reminding us to treasure and respect the delicate balance of our world. As we reflected on these awe-inspiring experiences, our path led us back to civilization and the bustling capital of Sikkim.

Gangtok, the capital of Sikkim, is a commercial hub, completely different from all other cities of Sikkim, with hotels of all types on every road and street. The main attractions here are MG Road, Tsomgo Lake, New Baba Mandir, and Nathu La Pass.

Like all hill stations, MG Road here is a market built for tourists. The difference is that it's very clean, beautiful, and affordable. Here you can buy various gift items for yourself and your loved ones. If tourists who come to Gangtok don't spend an evening here, their Sikkim trip is considered incomplete.

High in the mountains, 38 kilometers from Gangtok, Tsomgo Lake rests at a breathtaking 12,400 feet. This magical lake is a master of disguise. Under clear skies, it mirrors the heavens, dressed in shades of blue. But when clouds roll in, it transforms into a striking black and white scene. It's as if you're watching a movie that flips between vibrant color and classic monochrome. This chameleon-like quality, along with its believed healing powers, has earned the lake a sacred place in Sikkimese hearts. They call it Jhakri, a name that hints at its spiritual significance.

Even higher, at a dizzying 14,450 feet, stands Nathu La Pass. Here, at the edge of India, you can gaze across to China. But it's not the border that catches your eye - it's the snow. Soft as velvet, it blankets the world in white. Something about this pristine landscape awakens the child in everyone who visits. Suddenly, age melts away like spring snow, and you find yourself filled with wonder, ready to play in nature's grand playground.

Yet, amidst this playful wonder, there's a sobering reminder of the area's strategic importance. Not far from Nathu La Pass stands Baba Mandir, a testament to the region's complex geopolitical reality. Built and operated by the Indian Army, this shrine honors the brave soldier Baba Harbhajan Singh, who served tirelessly on the India-China border

As we descended from the heights of Nathu La Pass and Baba Mandir, Sikkim had one more lesson to teach us - one of human stewardship and care for the environment. While all of India embraces the Swachh Bharat (Clean India) mission, Sikkim takes it a step further. Here, cleanliness isn't just a goal; it's a way of life. The people of Sikkim don't just believe in a Clean India; they're creating a Clean and Beautiful India in their everyday actions.

Nature has blessed this land abundantly, but the people's efforts to preserve and enhance its beauty are equally impressive. We realized that their actions serve as inspiration far more powerful than any promotional campaign.

The commitment to cleanliness was evident everywhere - in bustling markets, quiet residential areas, and winding mountain roads. Flower beds burst with color along footpaths. Pots overflowing with plants adorned boundary walls and home galleries. The vibrant crotons and fresh blossoms seemed to whisper an invitation: "Come, see the beautiful Sikkim."

Even the small roadside stalls serving steaming Momos and comforting Maggi noodles maintained spotless facilities, including immaculate restrooms.

Building on our observations of Sikkim's natural beauty and its people's commitment to cleanliness, we discovered yet another facet of this remarkable state - its progressive social fabric.

While the rest of India often debates gender equality, Sikkim quietly practices it. Here, the balance between men and women isn't just a lofty ideal; it's woven into the very fabric of daily life. Curious about local customs, we struck up a conversation with our driver. His casual mention that most marriages in Sikkim are love marriages spoke volumes about the freedom and respect accorded to individual choices. This simple fact hints at a society where women's voices are heard and valued.

But it wasn't just in matters of the heart; we saw equality in action also. As we travelled through towns and villages, we witnessed women working alongside men in every sphere of life. On construction sites, women laid bricks and mixed cement with the same skill as their male counterparts. Behind the wheels of taxis and trucks, female drivers navigated mountain roads with confidence. In shops and markets, women ran businesses with entrepreneurial spirit. This equal partnership extended beyond the workplace. We saw couples sharing household responsibilities, jointly shouldering the tasks of daily life. There was a palpable sense of harmony, a shared understanding that a balanced society benefits everyone.

This spirit of equality and harmony was reflected in our culinary experiences as well. Our driver, Mr. Pasang, embodied the welcoming nature of the Sikkimese people, helping us enjoy local food at perfect spots. He stopped at places with great local food and beautiful views. As far as food is concerned, both vegetarian and non-vegetarian food is available. Rice is the main part of the food here, along with dal, saag or chicken/mutton. Momos, Thukpa, Thenthuk, Sel Roti, Bamboo Shoot vegetable - these local specialties are a must-try for visitors. The biggest feature of food here is the use of only organic food ingredients in cooking. Eating delicious local dishes while surrounded by nature felt like paradise. It was a wonderful way to experience Sikkim's cuisine and landscapes together.

As we savoured these local delicacies, Nepal and Tibet's influence was quite visible on Sikkim's culture and cuisine. People here listen to/watch Nepali songs and pictures with great interest. The reason for this might be Sikkim's geographical proximity to them or the melodiousness of Nepali songs. Whatever it may be, the cultural confluence of India, Nepal, and Tibet doesn't fail to touch the heart.

In Sikkim, you see both the beauty of nature and the beauty of human hearts together. Whenever we met the people of Sikkim, whether in heavy traffic, or in hotels, or in the market, they exchanged smiles among themselves and with tourists. An amazing passion for contentment was felt in their every expression. Rajneesh has said somewhere that the steady state of contentment is samadhi. I felt as if every person in Sikkim deals with people in a state of samadhi. Be it restaurant staff, car drivers, or traffic police.

It is said that when you become one with nature, your personality becomes more transparent and reassuring. Just as your language and words start to sound more reassuring when they resonate from the relationships of heart and tongue. You certainly feel the truth of this when you meet the people of Sikkim.

As tourists, we enjoy Sikkim's natural beauty, but we don't see the daily challenges and struggles of living here. If we want to feel that, we need to empathize better with them. It brought to mind a childhood story.

In the tale, a poor couple had seven talented daughters. Each girl was special in her own way. The villagers helped the family so the girls could use their gifts. This story feels like it's about the seven northeastern states.

If everyone works together - the states, the central government, and visitors - these seven sisters can grow while keeping their natural beauty. With this idea in mind, we ended our trip to Sikkim.